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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.